12 day Northern Italy Itinerary | Venice, The Prosecco Hills & Lake Garda
- Alexandra Spacavento
- Jul 30, 2024
- 11 min read
Updated: Aug 7, 2024
This is Part I of the Northern Italy Itinerary Series... Peek Part II for Dolomite Adventures!
Day 1: Surrendering to Venice's Labyrinthine Allure
Getting to your Accommodations:
Our Venetian adventure began with a splash of luxury - a water taxi ride from the airport. While pricier than the public water ferry, it felt like the perfect start to our Italian getaway. As we glided across the lagoon, Venice slowly revealed herself, a picturesque city seemingly floating on water.
For those opting for a more budget-friendly approach, the public water ferry (vaporetto) is a great alternative. Look for the orange Alilaguna line when departing from the airport. You can purchase tickets online and check the timetable for departure times, making your entry into Venice smooth and stress-free. While it may be a bit more crowded, especially during peak travel times, it's an authentic way to begin your Venetian experience.
Where to Stay:
We'd chosen an Airbnb nestled in the city's winding streets, which meant navigating Venice's charming but challenging landscape with our luggage. This unexpected journey, however, offered our first authentic taste of Venetian life - narrow alleys, picturesque bridges, and the gentle lapping of water against centuries-old stones. A word of advice for future travelers: if transporting luggage is a concern, consider staying at a hotel. Most Venetian hotels boast canal access at their entrance, allowing water taxis to deliver you directly to their doorstep. This can be a significant convenience, especially after a long journey. If you opt for an Airbnb or are using public transportation, be prepared for a bit of a walk from the nearest water bus station.
Exploring The City:
After settling in, we were eager to explore. Our usual habit of jogging to get our bearings quickly proved impractical - Venice, with its maze-like canals and cobblestone streets, isn't exactly runner-friendly. Instead, we set out on a leisurely stroll, letting the city guide our feet. Our wanderings led us to some of Venice's most iconic sights:
St. Mark's Square, bustling with life and history.
The stunning St. Mark's Basilica, a masterpiece of architecture.
Doge's Palace, grand and imposing.
The Campanile Bell Tower, offering a bird's-eye view of the city.
The Grand Canal, Venice's main aquatic thoroughfare.
The Rialto Bridge, an elegant arch over the Grand Canal.
Venice truly lends itself to the art of "getting lost." We quickly learned that putting away Google Maps and simply meandering through the streets led to the most delightful discoveries. The city's enchanting architecture and whimsical nature create an atmosphere straight out of a fairy tale. This approach to exploring Venice - surrendering to its labyrinthine allure - allowed us to experience the city in a more intimate and spontaneous way. If we had one more day in Venice I would have booked a tour of St. Marks Basilica & Dodges Palace or a walking food-tasting tour. I linked the two that caught my eye above!
Where to Eat/ Drink:
Luck was on our side when we spotted a sign for the Hotel Cipriani near St. Mark's Square. Friends had raved about it, so we hopped on the hotel's water taxi for a little midday indulgence. The hotel grounds were breathtaking, and we treated ourselves to cocktails and lunch by the water - a delightful pause in our day of exploration.
As the golden hour approached, we debated where to enjoy our aperitivo. Despite my curated list of bars, we were drawn to Bar Longhi. Though on the pricier side, its stunning views of the Grand Canal at sunset proved irresistible. We sipped our spritz, watching the sky paint itself in hues of pink and orange over the shimmering water.
For dinner, serendipity led us to Osteria Alla Staffa. This charming, no-reservations-needed spot turned out to be the perfect, relaxed finale to our first day in Venice. Nick and I shared a plate of rich squid ink pasta and a generous grilled seafood platter, complemented by a liter of crisp house white wine. The meal was nothing short of spectacular - fresh, flavorful, and quintessentially Venetian.
Day 2: Murano, Burano and a Little In-between
7:00 AM: We kicked off our second day in Venice with an early morning photo session. This has become one of our favorite travel traditions for two reasons: first, we get to take home stunning photos of our trip before the city awakens and the crowds descend; and second, the local photographers often know hidden spots that guidebooks miss, giving us a unique perspective on the city. We found our photographer Javidan through this Airbnb Experience- he was incredibly sweet, patient and made us feel so comfortable!
8:30AM: We embarked on a tour of the Murano and Burano islands. This excursion was a highlight of our trip, offering the perfect balance of guided exploration and free time. In Murano, we visited a family-owned glass-blowing factory, witnessing the mesmerizing art of Venetian glass-making firsthand. Burano charmed us with its vibrantly colored houses and rich history, which our guide brought to life before setting us loose to explore on our own. If you are able to recommend a guide, ask for Francesca Gin- she is phenomenal! During our free time in we indulged in cicchetti , traditional Venetian small plates, and spritzes at a quaint eatery in Burano.
2:00 PM: Back in Venice proper, we were eager to explore beyond the tourist hotspots. We made our way to Cannaregio, a quiet and picturesque district that feels worlds away from the bustle of San Marco. We took our time exploring- stopping for the occasional spritz and gelato fix. From there, we hopped over to San Polo using a gondola traghetto. These cross-canal ferries are a local secret for easy district-hopping, costing just 2 euros per person (cash only). There are about seven pickup points along the Grand Canal, making it a convenient and affordable way to navigate the city. In San Polo, we made an exciting stop at the Leonardo Da Vinci Museum. This had been highly recommended by friends who visited years ago, and it didn't disappoint. The exhibit is incredibly interactive - perfect for those traveling with kids, as you can literally touch anything in the museum. I've always been fascinated by Da Vinci's ingenious and inventive mind, and it was truly awe-inspiring to see all that he created. The museum offers a hands-on journey through his brilliant inventions and artworks, making it a standout experience of our trip.
6:00 PM: As the day began to fade, we indulged in that quintessential Venetian experience: a gondola ride just before sunset. Venice offers numerous spots to embark on this iconic journey, with no need for advance reservations. You'll find gondoliers waiting by their elegant boats along various canals throughout the city.
A tip for fellow travelers: don't waste time trying to haggle over the price. The rates for gondola rides are standardized by the city government, ensuring a fair experience for all. We chose a quieter canal for our departure, away from the busier tourist areas. The quieter, narrower canals offered glimpses into the more intimate side of Venetian life - laundry hanging from windows, the echoes of conversation and laughter from nearby homes, the gentle lapping of water against ancient stone.
8:00 PM: We capped off the night with a dinner reservation at Osteria Al Cantinon. This charming restaurant sits along one of Venice's inner canals, providing a peaceful setting for our evening meal. The gentle lapping of water against the canal walls and the soft glow of streetlights created an intimate, quintessentially Venetian atmosphere. On our way back, we couldn't resist stopping at Taverna La Fenice for a nightcap. This spot had caught my eye the previous evening with its chic lounge chairs outside, bathed in the warm glow of candlelight. The ambiance was irresistible, and we found ourselves settling into the comfortable seats for a final cocktail. It was the perfect way to end our day, sipping expertly crafted drinks while people-watching and soaking in the magical Venetian night.
Day 3: A Sparkling Adventure in the Prosecco Hills
Our third day in Italy brought an unexpected delight - a journey through the famed Prosecco Hills. This last-minute addition to our itinerary turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip. While planning our route from Venice to Lake Garda, I noticed the town of Prosecco nestled between. Intrigued, I dove into research, but the sheer number of wineries was overwhelming. Many seemed touristy, while others lacked an online presence (a charm I'd come to appreciate later).Serendipity struck when I remembered a couple we'd met in Tuscany who owned a family-run winery in the Prosecco Hills. A quick Instagram message later, and we had not just recommendations, but a personalized tour planned by a local wine-making connoisseur!
Our day began with an early start, picking up a rental car at Venice airport before heading to Valdobbiadene, the heart of Prosecco country. We met our gracious hosts at their family winery, Casa Gialla, a breathtaking introduction to the region. Our first tasting was at Nani Rizzi Winery, where we sipped exquisite Prosecco while drinking in the stunning views of the surrounding vineyards. The experience was a feast for all senses. Lunch at Osteria Dolce Vista was a rustic affair. We shared a massive Florentine steak cooked over an open fire, accompanied by an array of mouthwatering pasta dishes. It was the perfect fuel for our afternoon of wine tasting.
Other options for lunch:
Osteria alla Terrazza: Offers gorgeous views of the region on thier two-level terrace
Osteria Senz'Oste: Self-serve charcuterie, cheeses, breads & local wine at a stone farmhouse.
Frasca Marchet: A small farmhouse that offers baskets of local charcuterie for a picnic on the grounds
Post-lunch, we visited PDC Cartizze, known for their organic certified wines grown in the most revered plots of the Prosecco Hills. The Cartizze area is to Prosecco what Grand Cru is to Champagne, and the wines lived up to their prestigious reputation. We concluded our tour back at Casa Gialla, where our friends Alessandro and Marta gave us a personal tour of their grounds and treated us to their own exceptional wines. Nick, my gallant designated driver, ensured I could fully indulge in the day's offerings. As the sun began to set, we bid farewell to our wonderful Italian friends with warm hugs and kisses, our hearts (and car trunk) full of Prosecco and memories. By 5:30 PM, we were on our way to Lake Garda, already nostalgic for the rolling hills and bubbling wines we left behind.
Travler Tip:
For those planning to extend their Prosecco Hills experience with an overnight stay, there are several enchanting spots worth exploring along the route to Valdobbiadene. We unfortunately couldn't fit these into our whirlwind tour, but they come highly recommended by locals and fellow travelers alike. The Molinetto della Croda, a picturesque 17th-century mill perched dramatically against a rock face, offers a glimpse into the area's rich history and stunning natural beauty. Its waterwheel, still functional, paints a vivid picture of rural life in centuries past. The charming town of Follina, with its quaint streets and artisanal shops, provides a perfect backdrop for a leisurely stroll. Here, you can savor local cuisine and perhaps pick up some handcrafted souvenirs. A standout attraction is the Cistercian Abbey of Santa Maria in Follina, a masterpiece of Romanesque-Gothic architecture. Dating back to the 12th century, its cloisters and frescoes are a testament to the region's spiritual and artistic heritage. While we couldn't visit due to early morning timing constraints, it's a must-see if your schedule allows.
Day 4: Exploring the North End of Lake Garda
Our whirlwind tour through the Prosecco Hills left us with just one full day to explore the magnificent Lake Garda. While this iconic Italian destination certainly deserves more time, we were determined to make the most of our brief stay. I'll share with you our chosen accommodations, dining experiences, and the day excursion that allowed us to capture the essence of Lake Garda in our limited time. Additionally, I'll share some enticing recommendations from my research - options we couldn't fit into our itinerary but are well worth considering if you have the luxury of a longer stay.
Where to Stay:
For our stay in Lake Garda, we chose the Du Lac et Du Parc Grand Resort, a luxurious haven nestled in Riva del Garda. This expansive property is a true oasis, set within 70,000 square meters of lush parkland that stretches right to the lake's shore.
Where to Eat:
La Berlera: Situated in a beautifully restored 17th-century olive mill, La Berlera offers a rustic yet elegant dining atmosphere in Riva del Garda. The restaurant's stone walls, wooden beams, and intimate lighting create a warm, inviting ambiance that complements its culinary offerings. La Berlera specializes in traditional Trentino cuisine with a contemporary twist. The menu changes seasonally to showcase the best local produce, meats, and freshwater fish from Lake Garda. Their homemade pasta dishes and creative interpretations of regional classics are particularly noteworthy.
Bastione Restaurant and Lounge: Perched atop a hill overlooking Riva del Garda, Bastione Restaurant and Lounge offers a dining experience as spectacular as its views. This restaurant is housed in a 16th-century fortress, blending historical charm with modern culinary excellence. The menu features a refined take on regional cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. Diners can enjoy innovative dishes while gazing out over panoramic vistas of Lake Garda and the surrounding mountains. The outdoor terrace is particularly enchanting, especially during sunset. Note: You will need to buy tickets for a cable car to take you up to the restaurant.
What to Do in Lake Garda:
Savor Local Wines:
Azienda Agricola Comai - Cantina: Taste exquisite wines amid stunning vineyard views.
Gino Pedrotti: Explore a family-run winery known for its traditional methods and exceptional Nosiola wines.
Cruise the Crystalline Waters:
North Lake Sailing Tour: Enjoy a peaceful journey, taking in the dramatic mountain scenery.
Speed Boat Adventure: Adamas Boat Tours are completely customizable with the picturesque stops on the lake.
Picnic in Paradise:
Pack a gourmet basket with local specialties and find a secluded spot along the shore for a romantic lakeside picnic.
Cycle Through Scenery:
Join a guided bike tour around the lake, combining exercise with breathtaking views and insightful commentary on the area's history and nature.
Discover Hidden Gems:
Lago di Tenno: A 40-minute drive from Riva del Garda, this turquoise lake offers a tranquil escape.
Canale di Tenno: Walk an hour from Lago di Tenno to explore this beautifully preserved medieval village. Abandoned after WWII and revived in the 1960s, it's a living museum of Italian rural life.
Water Sports Paradise:
Try windsurfing, paddleboarding, or kayaking in the lake's clear waters.
Historical Exploration:
Visit the Scaliger Castle in Malcesine, offering panoramic lake views and a glimpse into the area's rich history.
Explore Limone sul Garda: This picturesque town, famous for its lemon groves, is a must-visit. Wander through its narrow, flower-lined streets, visit the historical limonaia (lemon houses), and enjoy breathtaking views of the lake. Don't miss the opportunity to taste limoncello, the local lemon liqueur, and explore the small but fascinating museum dedicated to fishing and lemon cultivation. If time allows, explore the small art galleries nestled in the charming side streets. These intimate spaces showcase local artists' interpretations of the stunning Lake Garda landscapes and Italian culture. You'll find a range of affordable pieces!
To be continued in Part II: Conquering the Dolomites - Adventures in Val Gardena and Cortina d'Ampezzo
I invite you to join us on the continuation of our Northern Italian escapade in Part II of this travel series. In the next installment, we'll take you through our exhilarating experiences hiking in the Dolomites, with a particular focus on the breathtaking regions of Val Gardena and Cortina d'Ampezzo. Expect tales of panoramic mountain trails, charming alpine villages, and the unique blend of Italian and Tyrolean cultures that make this region so special. We'll share our favorite hikes, mountain refugios, and the unforgettable moments that made our Dolomites adventure truly spectacular. So, grab your hiking boots and join us as we ascend from the shores of Lake Garda to the peaks of the Dolomites.
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